Excellence bound Success to
Equinox Textile 's Inspection Procedure and Technical system
Foreword
Equinox Ttextile offer her customers the renowned (4) point American system and alternatively, Japanese (10) system but the tolerance if awarded by the customer as per his given instructions, according to " technical Specification". We observe this system closely and strictly for the entire satisfaction of our customer.
Inspection Procedures and Requirements
It is Equinox Textile's responsibility, even if the customer involve an international inspection service or not, that inspection has to be carried out by the representative of the company in coordination with the Representative of international inspection service. Equinox Textile assure in any case that the subject shipment is in accordance with customer's given standards and requirements.
It will be the exporter's responsibility to intimate and confirm Equinox Textile the date of final pre-shipment inspection at least 4 days before stuffing the container.
A packing list consist of the details of the goods intended to be inspect , must e supplied to our Representative 2 hours before the inspection by the exporter/supplier.
Any piece of goods if not approved by the inspector can not be sent to the customer unless their is standing instruction by the customer.
It is the responsibility of Equinox Textile to send inspection results in the form of a report to the customer, even if it is not a contractual obligation by the customer, to allow shipment to exporter.
For every shipment the exporter shall facilitate the inspection team of Equinox Textile to arrange following inspection.
* 1st Inspection --Immediate/ after the production of 20% of shipment
* 2nd Inspection-- Immediately after the production of 50% of shipment
* 3rd Inspection --- Immediately after the end of Production of whole shipment
Penalty Points Evaluation
- Defects up to 3cm
- Defects from 3 to 20cm
- Defects from 20 to 50 cm
- Defects from 50 to 100 cm
- Continuous faults --- defects over 100 cm
- No piece of fabric shall have continuous defects in the 1st and last 40 meters or shall be deducted from the total length.
- No piece is acceptable if the hols are over 1cm/Sq.
Acceptance or Rejection Criteria
1. All holes, independent of their size, will be penalised with 3 points. a hole of two or more broken yarn.
2.No piece is acceptable as 1st quality if the points obtained through defects is over 32 points per 100 linear meter.
3. If following Japanese Method no piece as 1st quality if the points obtain through defects are above 45.
4. No piece is accepted as 1st quality, if the number of defects are higher than 10 both for American 4 point or Japanese 80 point system.
5. The distance between defects can not be less than 3 meters or consider continuous defects and rejected.
6. The piece length for Grieg fabric is 80:20 and processed fabric is 70:30 or otherwise agreed by the exporter or importer.
A Shipment is Considered a Delivery to Importer / Customer
The exporter is responsible to communicate Equinox Textile any change in production /shipping schedule at least 15 days before such happening. It is also exporter's responsibility to notify the Equinox textile for inspection. Any change in, less or more, or change in shipment schedule with revised date of intermediate inspections so as not to delay the inspection and subsequently shipment.
The Marking of defects, if mutually agreed by the importer and exporter must be in indelible ink. Such marking must be along the selvage, and readable at a meter distance.
The exporter must not use any solvent for the removal of stains both in loom state or processed, if otherwise compromised by the both parties in case of loom state fabric. however stain is a defect in any kind of finished fabric.
Technical Specifications and Evaluation
1. Equinox Textile inspection will be conducted according to the 4 point system or specially advised by the customer for Japanese standard, which implicate following rules:
1st--No more than 4 points may be assigned for single defect.
2nd- No more than 4 points may e assigned to one linear meter, regardless number of defects with in one meter.Defect of 1 point will be classified according to the "SEARS DEFECT SCALE", with the scale of " KNOT REPLICAS" and SLUB REPLICAS.
Essential to be Observed in Finished Goods
1. No piece is accepted as 1st quality as finished if, presents noticeable degree of looseness or tight along either or both selvages,ripples,puckers,folds or creases, that would prevent easy running through the process of finishing.
2. No piece will be accepted as 1st quality if, over 2% of bowing or skewing.
3. Difference in length above 1% will be on exporter's account.
4. All piece numbers (both ends of each piece with indelible ink)
Meters ( in one end of each piece)
Note: Marking must be done at 20 cm from the end, to avoid waste at importers end.
5. For each order there should be no pieces of different processing lots.
6. Importer has a right to reject the shipment if the characteristics of the fabric is no conformance with importers required specification.
7. For each shipment Equinox Textile require followings from Exporters for Importers
* Packing List
* Test Results Certificates required y importer
8. Packing materials must be in accordance with importers given specifications
9. Exporter must ensure that fabric reach Importer in adequate conditions, no dumpness , dirt, or other damages.
We have mentioned here under the faults in Grieg Fabric which make the fabric unusable for further process.(Bleaching, Dying, Printing and Finishing)
1.Knots and kinks
It is basically a fault of yarn mostly come from conventional spinning where splicers are not available. Therefore during weaving it is not only a cause of higher breakages, loss of efficiency but also it effect dying and printing process. Rotary screen jumps and cause misprinting and appear as a very bad patch after dying. This fault require a concentrated mending of fabric which can minimise its bad effect if properly mended. this fault if, not properly mended or repeated oblige inspector to reject the fabric for shipment.
2. Weft Slub We treat this fault as under in 4 point American system:
0-1"= 1 points
1" - 5" =3 points
3. Thick Place in the Weft (Uneven weft)
we do not consider it a serious fault provided not continuous. However we treat it as under:
5"- 10 " = 5 points
4.Coarse Weft
We consider it a very serious fault. Though its a spinning fault but if it is across the total width than its removal is necessary by cutting the fabric for an eligible piece length. we give penalty points.
10" - 36" = 10 points
5. Count Variation
It is an other fault from spinning. However, we consider it very serious in the fabric:
if it is across the salvage on 2 or 3 spots than it is = 10 points and a tag is must.
6.Yarn Mix
Its observed during weaving that two counts are used by the weavers. its very serious fault and and reject by us. however if it is only weaved with in one meter than allow cutting of fabric 10 penalty points will be awarded.
7.Sizing Spot
To make fabric yarn threads are transfer to sizing machine from cones in the form of a Sheet than sizing is applied. During sizing process steam evaporate and stick to the sealing of sizing section in the shape of drops which contains light brown and black spots. these faults if removed carelessly in the mending section , damage the fabric in the process of dying and bleaching. Therefore such fabric is rejected for export.
8. Warp Slub Some times in the ring section of spinning due to wrong adjustments create a thickness in the regular dia of yarn due to twist. this fault is acceptable with penalty points if not continuous:
0.5" to 1.5" = 1 point.
9. Warp Fluff
If the overhead cleaners are out of order or there is a problem in the succession tranches, the fluff flies in the weaving section and fell on the fabric. on the warp yarn during weaving. Mostly this fault is neglected by the inspection/mending section of the mills. it is very serious problem and need very careful inspection by us.It creates problem in the printing specifically and in dying as well. During our in-line-inspection we Equinox Textile hold the fabric for manual fluff removal before issuing to processing section.
10. Coarse End
During Equinox Textiles in-line-inspection, if we find Coarse End on the side of warp we note the piece and in the mending section cut to the eligible piece length otherwise it is considered rejected.
11. Thin End
Equinox Textile inspection team if find, such faults in the light of inspection frame, reject the fabric on the spot. It is due to inferior cotton and inferior spinning. Such fabric cannot be considered "A" Grade exportable fabric.
12. Loose End
This is a fault from the improper adjustments of warp tension at weaving machines or some time due to faulty sizing. however careful mending may remove this fault easily.
13. Tight End
Some time due to tension a thread seams thin and straight but after dying it appears badly and not acceptable if export deal is made of a "Dye able fabric. therefore rejected.
14. Missing End
A thread is missing in the fabric. Dropper which stop the weaving machine. If a thread is broken the loom stop. But due to a faulty dropper the weaving machine continuously run even after that missing end. We award 10 penalty points for this fault or reject the piece if its continuous.
15. Double End
In 1x1 plain weave, if dropper do not stop the loom than cause Double end. it is rejected fabric. in case of twill and satin weave its normally accrued due to fault in end feeding machine.This can be removed with laborious mending by picking it out otherwise cloth is considered rejected.
16.Reed Mark
Due to wrong feeding and distorted old reed wires, a straight sign appear on the body of fabric. its mend able fault so considered "A" grade if properly mended.
17. Nozzle Mark
In the Air Jet loom a nozzle is to be set for picks. Sometimes height of Nozzle remained improper during its setting. In this case fraction and tension increase in pick thread but to a line appear on the body of the fabric. Its mend able fault and a little mending effort can save Cover Effect of the fabric.
18. Temple Mark/ Cut
To control the contraction of width during fabric weaving Temple Guides are used. It has very tiny pins in the rings. For any reason,if the ring Jame than small cuts become visible on the fabric. these are not remove able by mending so, such fabric is considered rejected.
19. Irregular Selvage
Sometime there is wrong feeding of threads in the Tuck-In and sometime its due to improper tension. such salvage is not acceptable in Exportable "A" Grade fabric. Salvage should be even and regular 1.5 millimetre wide or if otherwise specified by the customer and shadow must not be more than 5 millimetre.Otherwise fabric is rejected.
20. Half Pick / Miss Pick
Due to adjustment of the looms there come Half Pick or Miss Pick. We award 10 penalty points for double pick across the width and 5 points if its half double pick. In case these are continuous than fabric is rejected for shipment.
21.Double Pick or Half Double Pick
It is also the result of wrong adjustment of loom. During inspection such faults are awarded 10 penalty points. Though its mend able fault and careful mending can remove it and make the fabric acceptable.
22. Float Web
It is very grave fault and not acceptable at all in Air-Jet loom woven fabric. However in shuttle less fabric there is a tolerance; if its size is not more than 0.75"/sq. and very carefully mended. we award 10 penalty points for it.
23. Holes
Any tiny hole of 1 millimetre or less is subject to 10 penalty points. if more than 2 in the whole piece than piece is rejected and to be cut off to eligible piece length if possible.
24. Foreign Matter
It is very unfortunate that Hair, Jute strings, Polypropylene and colour threads etc come in to cotton from picking of it than to Ginning to spinning and ultimately to weaving. Seldom, jute strings and poly is twisted in the yarn and not remove able. However, more often these can be removed by ordinary mending effort. Keeping in view of this situation Equinox Textile request our customer to advise tolerance limit for the acceptance of this fault depending upon the end use of fabric. For its further details please write us by email. Thanks.
Above observations for 1st. quality belongs to Air jet and new Shuttles looms not for Power loom or Auto looms.
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